Case mod (hack)

super_Chris · 10-22-2007, 08:45 PM

Whelp, there's fires to the north, south, east and west of me, no biggy. But oh yeah, there's a dust storm that engulfed half the state and trucks aren't allowed on the road... So work was pretty much canceled seeing as we wouldn't get **** delivery. I can't leave the house due to the fact that my truck is broken, and it's dangerous just being outside. So yeah, project in the garage time!

The basics:

Case was a Gateway 2000 server case, fully gutted and filleted. I'm adding 5/8 MDF ply to make the new case. I'm going to chamfer the face and top to make it look puurtty.

Photobucket

Here's the current server with it's current mega hacked server case. It's falling apart due to the poor mod/hackjob that I did a year or two ago.

tweakmonkey · 10-22-2007, 11:23 PM

tweakmonkey · 10-22-2007, 11:24 PM

I edited and made some of those images as a second post (to fix an issue with the front page).

That's a scary looking case, by the way. I'm curious to see the updates.

Mr. Ali · 10-23-2007, 01:02 AM

thats awesome man. i really want to make my own case since i cant find a good cheap case that has 10+ 5.25" drive bays.

cured · 10-23-2007, 01:55 AM

you hacked your case? UBER 1337 xD

im gonna start a case mod with my mate. Nice work

mistawiskas · 10-23-2007, 06:21 AM

I was going to do something similar with left over cabinet face samples from the store. The I was able to sell the old system for a couple hundred and
gave up the plan for now. Good project.

jag_e_fattig · 10-23-2007, 06:24 AM

Man that case is going to be one heavy son of a bitch

WoodButcher · 10-23-2007, 02:12 PM

Can't wait to see the outcome. Two words, threaded inserts, I used a lot of the 6-32 x 5/16", w/ small stainless cap screws.

super_Chris · 10-23-2007, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodButcher

Can't wait to see the outcome. Two words, threaded inserts, I used a lot of the 6-32 x 5/16", w/ small stainless cap screws.

I don't think I've ever used those, but I know of a few places that they would have come in handy.

WoodButcher · 10-23-2007, 04:55 PM

I used them on this to hold the plexi and alum panels. Any place that you may need to disassemble frequently. You can use the custom thumbscrews from the pc shops but I prefer the capscrews w/ a hex, I think they look cleaner. Those inserts can be had at most hardware stores and if you make or buy the driver for them they are real easy to install w/ a cordless drill.

super_Chris · 10-23-2007, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WoodButcher

I used them on this to hold the plexi and alum panels. Any place that you may need to disassemble frequently. You can use the custom thumbscrews from the pc shops but I prefer the capscrews w/ a hex, I think they look cleaner. Those inserts can be had at most hardware stores and if you make or buy the driver for them they are real easy to install w/ a cordless drill.

I had to do a whole aluminum awning a couple months ago. I now own about 5 of the magnetic tips (5/16 and 1/4). And I agree with you, those things kick ass compared to phillips.

WoodButcher · 10-23-2007, 08:43 PM

What I was referring to is this The inserts are threaded on the inside for a machine screw

The hex drives or nut setters are great for screws in sheet metal, for most of the wood screws I prefer the Square drives although in the past couple years I'm finding more torx.
If you get the opportunity try a 1/4" cordless impact driver, I've got a couple, an 18v dewalt and a makita. If you use one for an hour I guarantee it will become first on your shopping list. Even with the phillips it won't "cam out" as easily because of the hammer action.

mistawiskas · 10-24-2007, 05:51 AM

I use the self tappers and swear by these fasteners. The cleanest projects are the results.

super_Chris · 10-27-2007, 09:48 PM

Here it is with the top and side cut to size and just sitting there all purty.

Close up of the hinge. It's a cheapo cabinet hinge from Lowes. It doesn't really have any sort of "spring" to it, nor does it lock at the end. But it does have a smooth enough action, especially for under $3 a pop!

I had to remove the face. The hinge landed inside the metal of the case. So I would have to cut it so the hinges could both land directly on wood. If I left it to set on the metal of the case it would be off and the reveal(gap) on the door would look funny.

Cut, but now it needs to be bent straight and the edges revealed with the angle grinder.

Here's a cleat I put to help hold the top down. I realized that I should have ran it all the way to the other side, and routed out a chunk so the front fan could fit. I will tear it off and do it over.

Here's the cleat that sits toward the front. It's 3/4 Poplar face frame(cabinet) material. I put into this custom made and incredibly expensive template to help get a clean straight routed edge.

Here's the cleat in place. It's always good to dry fit before you glue it all up.

Glued and clamped in place.

Here's the overall shot.

I'll get the top on next, then the side panel. Then I'll be off to chamfer all the edges with the bigger router. Then I'll have to edge band all my cuts(pre paint preperation). Then It'll get a nice coat of oil based enamel. Then the finishing stencils. This thing is gonna rock.

super_Chris · 10-28-2007, 11:03 PM

Here's the two cleats, glued in place and properly relieved to accommodate a Sunon(AKA 120MM tornado).

A nice thick coat of Titebond III applied. I normally use Titebond II, but I've got almost 3/4 of a gallon after that backboard I made.

Top is on, and clamped. I added bar clamps after these. No way I'd trust that not to move when I'm not watching.

Here she is. Side panel and all.

Inside shot.

There's still a lot left, but it is an actual case at this point.

mistawiskas · 10-29-2007, 06:27 AM

The venting needs to be pretty good as that MDF is some real insulating material.

super_Chris · 10-29-2007, 09:48 PM

Edges routed and ready to go. Edge banding started. joint compound applied and setting up.

Mr. Ali · 10-29-2007, 10:09 PM

congratulations, you jizzed all over your case!

LockDown · 10-29-2007, 10:15 PM

Thats a pretty slick case. Definitely heavy but would be nice for something sitting in the corner and not moving. Probably fairly quiet too, assuming the wood doesn't vibrate.

Few things though, do you plan on putting in drive bays? And wouldn't you want more air flow through there with all the wood keeping the heat in?

super_Chris · 10-29-2007, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDown

Thats a pretty slick case. Definitely heavy but would be nice for something sitting in the corner and not moving. Probably fairly quiet too, assuming the wood doesn't vibrate.

Few things though, do you plan on putting in drive bays? And wouldn't you want more air flow through there with all the wood keeping the heat in?

No CD drives or externals for that matter. I've deiced to remount the 5 1/4 cage to the top of the case(on the interior) and use adapter rails. That way I got more room between the drives. It's gonna go right in front of that one 120 in the top front.

More airflow? It's got 2x120mm fans, a 92mm and an 80mm in the power supply. That's a a lot of case fans.

I don't understand how a wood case would keep in more heat than a metal case. I mean, a steal case doesn't actually radiate heat.

Keep the comments coming though. I'll take whatever input I can get.

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10-22-2007, 08:45 PM	Case mod (hack)	permalink #1
super_Chris Habitual line stepper Jan 2005 Last Seen: Today Location: Lake Elsinore, CA, USA Posts: 3,490 (#22) Thanked 2x in 2 posts x0	Whelp, there's fires to the north, south, east and west of me, no biggy. But oh yeah, there's a dust storm that engulfed half the state and trucks aren't allowed on the road... So work was pretty much canceled seeing as we wouldn't get **** delivery. I can't leave the house due to the fact that my truck is broken, and it's dangerous just being outside. So yeah, project in the garage time! The basics: Case was a Gateway 2000 server case, fully gutted and filleted. I'm adding 5/8 MDF ply to make the new case. I'm going to chamfer the face and top to make it look puurtty. Photobucket Here's the current server with it's current mega hacked server case. It's falling apart due to the poor mod/hackjob that I did a year or two ago.
	Fuck the war... Sex the troops.

Yesterday, 05:30 PM	#2
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10-23-2007, 01:02 AM	permalink #4
Mr. Ali Lord Of Porn Jan 2005 Last Seen: Today Location: CA, USA Posts: 3,536 (#20) Thanked 4x in 4 posts x34	thats awesome man. i really want to make my own case since i cant find a good cheap case that has 10+ 5.25" drive bays.
	"As a Ford owner, trust me when I say, you will never regret anything more in your life than buying a Ford over a Toyota." - Dan T3D

10-23-2007, 06:21 AM	permalink #6
mistawiskas outside the box! Jan 2005 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: Grants Pass, Oregon Posts: 14,406 (#2) Thanked 9x in 9 posts x199	I was going to do something similar with left over cabinet face samples from the store. The I was able to sell the old system for a couple hundred and gave up the plan for now. Good project.
	Until now,never!before in Earth history, has mass extinction involved a choice. Stewardship is not optional. Get out of the box, then recycle it.

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10-22-2007, 11:23 PM	permalink #2
tweakmonkey Hi, I'm the mayor. Jan 2005 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 4,204 (#14) Thanked 19x in 11 posts x303

10-22-2007, 11:24 PM	permalink #3
tweakmonkey Hi, I'm the mayor. Jan 2005 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 4,204 (#14) Thanked 19x in 11 posts x303	I edited and made some of those images as a second post (to fix an issue with the front page). That's a scary looking case, by the way. I'm curious to see the updates.

10-23-2007, 01:55 AM	permalink #5
cured Tech No0b Oct 2007 Last Seen: 07-17-2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 562 (#117) Thanked 0x in 0 posts x11	you hacked your case? UBER 1337 xD im gonna start a case mod with my mate. Nice work

10-23-2007, 06:24 AM	permalink #7
jag_e_fattig Yes, that's what I said. Jan 2005 Last Seen: 09-18-2008 Location: Cape Cod <--> Narnia <--> San Diego Posts: 509 (#120) Thanked 0x in 0 posts x4	Man that case is going to be one heavy son of a bitch
	AER - 05/29/87-10/26/03, I'll never forget.

10-23-2007, 02:12 PM	permalink #8
WoodButcher Tweak Minion May 2006 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: CT. Posts: 1,534 (#62) Thanked 1x in one post x4	Can't wait to see the outcome. Two words, threaded inserts, I used a lot of the 6-32 x 5/16", w/ small stainless cap screws.
	*Q6600@ 3.4 Underwater, P5E-VM HDMI, 4GB OCZ, EVGA 8800GT, PCP&C 610w*

10-23-2007, 04:55 PM	permalink #10
WoodButcher Tweak Minion May 2006 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: CT. Posts: 1,534 (#62) Thanked 1x in one post x4	I used them on this to hold the plexi and alum panels. Any place that you may need to disassemble frequently. You can use the custom thumbscrews from the pc shops but I prefer the capscrews w/ a hex, I think they look cleaner. Those inserts can be had at most hardware stores and if you make or buy the driver for them they are real easy to install w/ a cordless drill.

10-23-2007, 08:43 PM	permalink #12
WoodButcher Tweak Minion May 2006 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: CT. Posts: 1,534 (#62) Thanked 1x in one post x4	What I was referring to is this The inserts are threaded on the inside for a machine screw The hex drives or nut setters are great for screws in sheet metal, for most of the wood screws I prefer the Square drives although in the past couple years I'm finding more torx. If you get the opportunity try a 1/4" cordless impact driver, I've got a couple, an 18v dewalt and a makita. If you use one for an hour I guarantee it will become first on your shopping list. Even with the phillips it won't "cam out" as easily because of the hammer action. Last edited by WoodButcher; 10-23-2007 at 08:45 PM.

10-24-2007, 05:51 AM	permalink #13
mistawiskas outside the box! Jan 2005 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: Grants Pass, Oregon Posts: 14,406 (#2) Thanked 9x in 9 posts x199	I use the self tappers and swear by these fasteners. The cleanest projects are the results.

10-27-2007, 09:48 PM	permalink #14
super_Chris Habitual line stepper Jan 2005 Last Seen: Today Location: Lake Elsinore, CA, USA Posts: 3,490 (#22) Thanked 2x in 2 posts x0	Here it is with the top and side cut to size and just sitting there all purty. Close up of the hinge. It's a cheapo cabinet hinge from Lowes. It doesn't really have any sort of "spring" to it, nor does it lock at the end. But it does have a smooth enough action, especially for under $3 a pop! I had to remove the face. The hinge landed inside the metal of the case. So I would have to cut it so the hinges could both land directly on wood. If I left it to set on the metal of the case it would be off and the reveal(gap) on the door would look funny. Cut, but now it needs to be bent straight and the edges revealed with the angle grinder. Here's a cleat I put to help hold the top down. I realized that I should have ran it all the way to the other side, and routed out a chunk so the front fan could fit. I will tear it off and do it over. Here's the cleat that sits toward the front. It's 3/4 Poplar face frame(cabinet) material. I put into this custom made and incredibly expensive template to help get a clean straight routed edge. Here's the cleat in place. It's always good to dry fit before you glue it all up. Glued and clamped in place. Here's the overall shot. I'll get the top on next, then the side panel. Then I'll be off to chamfer all the edges with the bigger router. Then I'll have to edge band all my cuts(pre paint preperation). Then It'll get a nice coat of oil based enamel. Then the finishing stencils. This thing is gonna rock.

10-28-2007, 11:03 PM	permalink #15
super_Chris Habitual line stepper Jan 2005 Last Seen: Today Location: Lake Elsinore, CA, USA Posts: 3,490 (#22) Thanked 2x in 2 posts x0	Here's the two cleats, glued in place and properly relieved to accommodate a Sunon(AKA 120MM tornado). A nice thick coat of Titebond III applied. I normally use Titebond II, but I've got almost 3/4 of a gallon after that backboard I made. Top is on, and clamped. I added bar clamps after these. No way I'd trust that not to move when I'm not watching. Here she is. Side panel and all. Inside shot. There's still a lot left, but it is an actual case at this point.

10-29-2007, 06:27 AM	permalink #16
mistawiskas outside the box! Jan 2005 Last Seen: Yesterday Location: Grants Pass, Oregon Posts: 14,406 (#2) Thanked 9x in 9 posts x199	The venting needs to be pretty good as that MDF is some real insulating material.

10-29-2007, 09:48 PM	permalink #17
super_Chris Habitual line stepper Jan 2005 Last Seen: Today Location: Lake Elsinore, CA, USA Posts: 3,490 (#22) Thanked 2x in 2 posts x0	Edges routed and ready to go. Edge banding started. joint compound applied and setting up.

10-29-2007, 10:09 PM	permalink #18
Mr. Ali Lord Of Porn Jan 2005 Last Seen: Today Location: CA, USA Posts: 3,536 (#20) Thanked 4x in 4 posts x34	congratulations, you jizzed all over your case!

10-29-2007, 10:15 PM	permalink #19
LockDown Member Sep 2006 Last Seen: Yesterday Posts: 160 (#154) Thanked 0x in 0 posts x2	Thats a pretty slick case. Definitely heavy but would be nice for something sitting in the corner and not moving. Probably fairly quiet too, assuming the wood doesn't vibrate. Few things though, do you plan on putting in drive bays? And wouldn't you want more air flow through there with all the wood keeping the heat in?

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