[Jishory]

Originally Posted by JustinL

Maybe look at an older S10. If you can find one with a 4.3 v6 (bullet proof engine), it may come with a 700r4. If the tranny blows, you can swap in a turbo 350, turbo 400, 700r4, or most any other standard gm tranny that is a dime a dozen. Can you drive stick? That would be my preference for a long lasting transmission. Even if the synchros go out, you can just double clutch them and not worry about it.

i was gonna say that, i had a 95 gmc jimmy that i abused for the last 100k miles of the 200k miles we had it, it had seen plenty of air time, burnouts and i have even had the hood under water, it still worked great until the day we sold it, besides the a/c compressor, only problem we had with it. but we live somewhere with 100 degree plus summers daily where the a/c pump was maxed out all the time, so no gripes here. i miss that thing

[Chainblade]

unfortunately, I know nothing about how to work on vehicles. I wish I did though...

[super_Chris]

I'd have to agree with the others. Try for a Toyota, but you're not likely to get one in your price range. Ford's Automatics SUCK. My old v6 ranger was about to lose the tranny before I crashed it(good timing?). Get a damn manual. I own a 5 speed S10, but would suggest against it for you. You sound like your just too big for that truck.

My suggestion is an F150 with a 4.0 and a 5 speed. That right there is a pretty good combination. I highly suggest that you learn to work on your vehicles though, it's an absolute necessity if you're low on funds.

[Chainblade]

Originally Posted by super_Chris

I'd have to agree with the others. Try for a Toyota, but you're not likely to get one in your price range. Ford's Automatics SUCK. My old v6 ranger was about to lose the tranny before I crashed it(good timing?). Get a damn manual. I own a 5 speed S10, but would suggest against it for you. You sound like your just too big for that truck.

My suggestion is an F150 with a 4.0 and a 5 speed. That right there is a pretty good combination. I highly suggest that you learn to work on your vehicles though, it's an absolute necessity if you're low on funds.

problem with learning to work on my vehicles is that I would be fucked if I messed up lol. it's something i'd like to do but don't really know how to go about it. it's not like i'm gonna read a step by step book and be able to fix my transmission...

anywho, it is fixed for now. i took it back to the place and got it fixed under warranty. I guess some vacuum hose "shrunk" or something and it wasn't attaching properly. They put in a longer one and it's good now. In the mean time, I'm going to see if I can trade/sell it for something else.

[super_Chris]

Originally Posted by Chainblade

problem with learning to work on my vehicles is that I would be fucked if I messed up lol. it's something i'd like to do but don't really know how to go about it. it's not like i'm gonna read a step by step book and be able to fix my transmission...

Start small. Change your oil/filters. Then when you get ballsy work on your suspension. Then if you get even more ballsy work on the actual guts of your engine.

I do almost all my own work on my vehicles. The only things I don't do are the ones I can't do, like alignment/valve adjustments/etc.

[Chainblade]

Originally Posted by super_Chris

Start small. Change your oil/filters. Then when you get ballsy work on your suspension. Then if you get even more ballsy work on the actual guts of your engine.

I do almost all my own work on my vehicles. The only things I don't do are the ones I can't do, like alignment/valve adjustments/etc.

any recommendations for websites or books that would help?

[WoodButcher]

Autoparts store, the Haynes or Chiltons manual for your specific vehicle. First purchase for every vehicle I own, some folks buy air fresheners and Armor-all,,,, I don't care what it smells like, I want it to run.

[Scooby]

Yeah, Haynes and Chiltons are god sends. They'll break it down so anyone can figure out how to work on it.

[super_Chris]

Originally Posted by Scooby

Yeah, Haynes and Chiltons are god sends. They'll break it down so anyone can figure out how to work on it.

I've used both Haynes and Chiltons. I hated the damned Haynes manual for my old Mercedes. I swear to god, every time I wanted to do something minor(like adjust the headlights) it would tell me to take it to the dealer, but If I had to tear down the trans it gave a full writeup. WTF?

Chilton's do rock though.

Changing the oil is easy though, you don't need a manual. Get an oil pan/bucket pull your oil plug(not your trans plug), drain the oil, replace plug, pull oil filter, replace oil filter with a new one(put fresh oil on the rubber o-ring first), throw in 4 quarts of oil, run the vehicle for 30 seconds, check oil level and add as necessary and remember the rough amount it needed for next time.

If you want any engine to last, change the oil before it's needed. I change my oil every 3k miles(in every car/truck) and use Mobile1 with good filters. I've never had an engine failure.

[Chainblade]

Originally Posted by super_Chris

Changing the oil is easy though, you don't need a manual. Get an oil pan/bucket pull your oil plug(not your trans plug), drain the oil, replace plug, pull oil filter, replace oil filter with a new one(put fresh oil on the rubber o-ring first), throw in 4 quarts of oil, run the vehicle for 30 seconds, check oil level and add as necessary and remember the rough amount it needed for next time.

If you want any engine to last, change the oil before it's needed. I change my oil every 3k miles(in every car/truck) and use Mobile1 with good filters. I've never had an engine failure.

lmao too many words lol. that's how dumb i am with vehicles, all that you just said is like a different language to me.

however, I do get my oil changed every 3,000 miles or so. Here's a question for you. Is "high mileage" oil worth it? I've read lots of stories that it's a waste and really doesn't do much of anything.

EDIT: so this is the book you are talking about: http://www.delmarlearning.com/browse...=AU&cat2ID=CHM

[super_Chris]

That's the book you need.

To change your oil:

Get under vehicle. Lift if neccesary, always jack stands and wheel chocks(blocks of wood).

Underneath the engine there will be a large stamped metal "pan". It's usually the lowest part of the engine. Be carefull though, transmissions are sometimes mistaken by novices.

Find the oil "plug". It will be a bolt with approximately a 5/8" head. Remove plug and let the oil drain. It is also advisable to run the engine for about 30 seconds prior to drainage, to get the solids in the oil and not sticking to the bottom.

Replace the plug.

Remove the oil filter. It's a cylinder roughly the size of a soup can. Use a strap wrench or a or filter puller. You can sometime remove them by hand, or in a pinch, stab through them with a screw driver and use the driver's torque to remove it.

The new filter will have a rubber O-ring. get a little fresh oil on your finger and get that o-ring wet. Put the new filter on, screw it in till it's as tight has you can get it with bare hands.

Pour 4 quarts of oil into the oil filler. Average engine's use 4-5 quarts, very large engines use 6.

Run engine for roughly 30 seconds.

Check oil level. If it's low(probable) add more and run the engine for another 30 seconds.

Re inspect underside of vehicle and engine compartment for leaks, or anything loose you may have over looked when doing the job. Done.

If you have all the tools handy it should take no more than 30 minutes to do this. It takes me about 25 minutes to change oil, clean and put away tools.

[WoodButcher]

super_chris chilton!
That's pretty much what the book gives you but w/ pics.
I've done lots from these books but make sure you read through top to bottom first. I had a bad steering column in an S10, tilt steering, 4 bolts on a u-joint inside the cab worked loose, Started w/ the manual and it gets me the column stripped and the ignition out and tells me then that the rest is too complex and bring it to the dealer! WTF!!! I called a mechanic freind and after a few laughs at my expense he showed me what to do.
Most repairs are easy enough and at worst you'll buy a few one time tools, like the gismo to align clutchplates. I've got one from my wifes '81 Toyota Celica, I did the clutch in '90, junked the car in '93 or 4 and still have that tool in my box.
If you post up here what you plan to do I'm sure guys will give you tips on what to avoid or to buy in advance, things like drum brakes, get the spring removal tool and new retention springs every time. They cost about $10 and save you so much grief in assembly it's a well spent sawbuck.

and band-aids,,,,,


lots