[Juballharshaw]

How easy are they to replace? Specifically on the girlfriend's '03 Sante Fe which needs them at 60k to stay under warranty. The dealer wants $360 to change them which I think is ridiculous, especially considering they charge $210 for 4 cylinders. (Yes, I'm sure it might be harder due to engine compartment size differences, but still.)

Oh, and tools? If I remember correctly I'll need a spark plug socket, anti-seize, and something to measure gap right?

So, is this a fool's venture or should it be feasible to do?

[Justin3]

Many engines have the spark plugs sitting at odd angle which can be difficult to get out if you dont have various socket extensions and flex joints. When you install the spark plug you must make sure it goes in straight or else you may strip or damage the threads in the cylinder head and that is a lot of money to repair. Remember to hand tighten the plugs first and then socket them down.

[hans5849]

They probably mean plugs and wires at 60K.

Loosen- 5/8 socket. Extension. Ratchet.
If they are where you can't reach them with your fingers to remove them, use the old spark plug wire connectors to get a grip on it and pull it out. I usually put the plug back in and turn it a 1/4 turn then put the connector on, turn it out with the wire and all it happy. (I make things to complex)
Use a gapper to make sure the gaps are the proper distance (.50 autozone)
Tighten- Put oil or special anti-seize on the threads (.50 autozone), use above method to remove the socket if needed (this way you are not just dropping it in the tube). Tighten till snug, if you have a torque wrench and a manual it will tell you the ft-lbs to tighten to.

Remove wires one at a time replacing the old ones as you go. If you remove them all at once you may mess up the firing order.

Parts- Wires, Plugs, Anti-Seize
Tools- Spark plug Socket, Extension (if needed), ratchet, Spark plug gapper (I prefer the circular ones that have all the different gaps on them), Anti-Seize, Torque Wrench (optional), Haynes or Chiltons Manual (Optional).

It's easier than doing a hard drive swap and more satisfying as it is a "man skill".

[Juballharshaw]

Good deal, this is what I was hoping to hear. The Haynes manual is on order and when it gets here I'll check to see how bizarre the placement of the plugs is.

[nidex]

If it's a 4 cylinder you should have no problem as soon as you take that gay ass plastic cover off.

[Juballharshaw]

It's a 6, one without any power, but still a 6.

[nidex]

I've probably done one at work but can't recall, as long as it's OHC you should have no problems.

[MSP]

Just be sure to gap them according to the service manual, but otherwise it should be no problem. I didn't pay someone to install plugs in one of my vehicles until after I was 30, it's generally a breeze.

Growing up my old man would never gap them, and that fucker owned a service station back in the 1970s. Just goes to show you a lot of people don't know what the fuck they are doing.

[sims]

who still gaps there plugs these days? don't most modern cars run platinum/iridium plugs that should not be gapped?

I gap mine, but that's because I' currently run coppers in my Celica and My Hilux doesn't have any.

On most cars its a pretty simple job, the odd car can be difficult, I'd try and find a tutorial online, you should get a pretty good idea how hard/easy it will be.

All you should really need is a decent socket set, though I'd recommend anti-seize. I've got a torque wrench and I didn't even use it last time I did my plugs, put them in by hand then give it a little tug with a ratchet to make sure its in snugly.

[demonizeZ]

going by the architectural image in my head of its engine. I think you need to remove intake plenum for rear plugs. Since you replacing them use Platinum plugs. Last longer. Alos inspect the plug wires. just in case.

EDIT. just cant remember if that is for V4 or V6 but you can tell that when you under it.