[Torx]

Alright, so if the weather searves me right imma try to replace the ujoints.

My questions are..

i havent really looked under there in a while, do i have to replace both ujoints front and rear of the driveshaft? Or is there just one ujoint that needs to be replaced (rear)??

do i really need a bench vise or can i just beat the hell out of it with hammer and socket trick?

Ive looked around online and noone mentions front ujoint replacing.

Also, if i were to remove the driveshaft from the trans, will trans fluid spill out everwhere?

[bigwill51534]

OK, to begin with, you only need to replace one u-joint at a time. But, it's common for both to fail in about the same time frame. It's usually wise to replace both while you have the driveshaft out.

Next, you will need a bench vise (or hydraulic press) to break the joints loose. You will need a very strong socket or solid steel cylindar to press out the caps. You won't be able to apply pressure long enough, and with enough force to break the joint loose.

Finally, you will need some sort of a plug for the transfer case, unless you drain the grease.

Let me know if you have any more quesitons.

~Will Courtier~

[Miller]

just jack op the rear of the car and you wont leak out, also dont beat the hell out of it, a unbalenced driveshaft can cause wicket vibrations. use a bench vise

[offroadin]

Best to replace both while you have the d-shaft out.

Vise or press is easiest, but if you have something solid to rest it on, a hammer and a socket will work. You'll be hard pressed to bend the yoke of the driveshaft.

You can plug the output of the tranny with a good rag stuffed way in when you slip the driveshaft out. Remember to check you ATF level after when the car is warmed up, idling in park.

[Torx]

aight, i might be a little confused on this one.. but can i buy the whole yoke + ujoint already installed?
that way all i gotta do is bolt it on both ends without having to go through the whole process of hammering and shit

[Diesel]

It's not that hard to replace u-joints.

Remove the retaining rings and strike the top of the yoke on the driveshaft with a hammer. This pops out the u-joint from the top cap. Rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees (jack up rear end) and bang the other side of the yoke.

Maneuver the u-joint out of the trans yoke by collapsing the driveshaft at the slip-yoke.

Repeat the u-joint removal process at the other end to remove the driveshaft.

Once the driveshaft is out you can remove the u-joints by propping the driveshaft up on the two uncapped sections of the u-joint (use something solid like a vise or similar) and striking the yoke with a hammer. Roatate 180 and repeat.

Clean the yokes with CRC Brakleen or Permatex Brake and Parts Cleaner. Before inserting the new caps, coat the inner surfaces of the yoke with Permatex Anti-Seize.

[offroadin]

Torx,

The "yoke" is a fixed part of the driveshaft. There is one welded on the rear, and then a set on the front of the driveshaft.

Diesel, his car probably has a th350 auto, which doesn't have a slip yoke in the shaft, it just slips into the trans. There is no fixed yoke on the back of the trans.

[Diesel]

Yeah, I'm a big rig diesel tech so things may be a bit different.

[Jishory]

i change alot of u-joints, best way is the vice because you can tweak the ears with a hammer, i have bent the ears on shafts a few out on the trail trying to change u-joints.
and torx, its not hard at all dude, i changed one today, just use a vice and make sure you dont lay down any needle bearings.

[Torx]

alright, great information guys!

i lifted the car, unbolted the rear part.
marked everything
dropped it, pulled it out of the trans (200C)

put it on the table and noticed, unlike the books and online pictures mine doesnt have the snap rings on the outsides, it has what looks to be a metal round cover, that might be covering the snap rings. I pried on it, banged on it, and it didnt pop off. So i examined the long bearings in the cups, everything looked great, no rust still had plenty of grease in there, so i put some grease back on, put it all together and reinstalled it.

big waste of my time because i feel like i didnt fix anything.
i was stuck after not being able to find the "snap rings"
heres a picture of what im talking about, this isnt mine, just an example of the cover thingie i couldnt get off

[Torx]

what else could cause the gear change clanking and downshift clanks if it isnt the ujoints?

trans? rear end?

imma just take it to a tranny shop and let them fool with it, im so tired of working on this damn car its pissing me off.

[offroadin]

ROFL

That u joint is fucked. See the wear marks/grooves in it? Looks like the original u joints. You should be able yo press/pouind those out.

[Torx]

no, thats not mine, just an example of the cover piece that i cant get off.. to get to the snap rings

[Scooby]

ROFL

I will never understand what makes these things so funny...

[BrentN]

Dont U-joints make a 'chattering' noise during acceleration AND turning at slow speeds? I mean torx, if its only during acceleration maybe its something to do with the tranny?

I dunno, its quite obvious that drivetrain is NOT my forte

[offroadin]

BrentN:

U joints don't chatter. They clunk at slow speeds, vibrate at high speeds. Doesn't matter if you're turning or not unless you have a 4x4 with universals on the front axle.